Crossing the Finnish Line

Well, I finally got up the courage and energy to complete the task of laundry once again.  It turns out that doing laundry once a week is much more manageable than every two weeks, when I have worn everything that I own and have to do the laundry in my pajamas.  This task took me about 1 ½ hours and by the end I had burned more calories than I ever did at the gym.  As I was hanging the last of my clothes on the line, Ben, the Financial Director of 4H Tanzania came by to see how I was doing and casually mentioned that there would be a group from Finland coming to the camp for two and a half weeks.  “Great!” I said.  “When are they coming?” 

“Two”

“Two, when?  Two today?”  I enquire, frantically looking at my pajamas and wondering if I can blow on my clothes to make them dry faster. 

“Of course, two today.”  Ben responded, wondering if it was a liability to have someone as slow as I, working with youth.

You see, I have already explained the concept of “African Time,” meaning 2 is 4, later is tomorrow, and sometime is never.  But there is an entirely separate but related concept that I was unaware of.  In America, if people don’t have their week, let alone their day planned out at least to some extent, they stress about it.  Here, having your day planned out is stress.  I think that it stems from not being able to control the environmental influences on your schedule.  You can’t control when the electricity will work, you can’t control when the bus will arrive, so don’t plan something that you have no control over.  Being an American, this takes a little getting used to.  We never know what is happening two days before it does.  We thought people just forgot to tell us, but in actuality, nobody knew.  Either it wasn’t planned yet, or knowing the plan would stress people out so they didn’t tell anyone.  Either way, you just learn to go with it.

Two o’clock rolled around and sure enough, off the bus stepped 7 girls ages 14-20 and two adults.  That was on Wednesday and we have been enjoying their company and travelling with them ever since. Wednesday night a 4H Club from Tanga came to share their educational dramas, songs, and games with us and we had a blast dancing, jumping, and singing!

 On Thursday we went to the Amboni Caves outside of Tanga.  They were beautiful (inside and outside)…except for the bats.  It doesn’t matter if a girl is African, American, or European, generally speaking, she won’t like bats.  And that wasn’t the last of the rodent’s that the Finnish girls would see on this trip…but I’ll save that story for later.  I have decided that my next profession is going to be naming the stalactites, stalagmites, and rock formations in caves.  Someone has to do it, right?  All of the formations in the Amboni caves had a name.  Some were obvious, some you sort of had to squint and turn sideways to see.  Mother Mary?  Sure.  Why not?

After touring the caves, we walked up the road to meet a bus and take it into Tanga and go to the grocery store and market.  Then we went to the beach in Tanga to swim!  This is the first time I have been to the beach here.  Because of the Mangrove trees lining the coast, the beach area is actually very small, but sufficient for some swimming fun.  It was on Thursday that I got to hear the story of how this group of 7 girls and two adults from Finland came to be visiting 4H Tanzania.  

Once upon a time, a few years ago, in a Finland far, far away, lived a group of 4H Members who wanted to learn about the history of their village and surrounding area.  The girls decided that they would do research on the way their ancestors lived and interviewed relatives to find out what has changed since they were children.  They got the idea to make playing cards with terms and pictures of things that weren’t used anymore.  They sold these sets of cards and decided to use the money to go to an amusement park nearby.  These girls ask Johanna (one of the chaperones) if she would take them to the amusement park.  She said yes and they began planning their trip.  While they were planning, the girls found out that Johanna lived in Tanzania when she was growing up and somehow, their trip to the amusement park turned into a trip to Tanzania…wherever that is.  They began working, planning, and saving for a trip to Tanzania.  They started their own businesses and saved everything they made to go towards their trip.  Laura, Sara, Ava, Anni started a babysitting business and also organize camps when school is out.  Anna cares for horses while the owners are away.  Anina sells drawings and paintings.  Sandra makes and sells “Sandra’s Candles.”  In addition to their individual projects, they sold baked goods, cleaned houses, planted trees, held” Tanzania Nights” with food and songs from Africa.  They worked for over a year and a half, conducting over 50 different fundraising projects to raise over $30,000 to fund their trip.

Wow.

Can you say dedication?  I was so impressed when I found out how they had raised their funds.  And I am so excited that they reached their goals and are now spending two and a half weeks travelling in Tanzania.  Sadly, they are only spending a week here in Kange.  My favorite thing we have done with them so far happened on Friday:

After spending the morning visiting a primary school 4H Club just down the road from us where we planted trees with the kids, we then visited a group of young women 4H members who meet and work at a vocational school where they sew and embroider.  When we returned to Kange, we met with the same Secondary school 4H club that we had met with on Wednesday for more games, singing, and dancing.  After we were COMPLETELY exhausted, we ate a wonderful Finnish dinner prepared by the girls.  They wanted to make dinner for everyone on Thursday night, because in Finland it is the Midnight Sun Festival, celebrating the longest day of the year.  During the summer in Finland the sun doesn’t go down…ever.  So they have a big bonfire and celebration.  Fortunately for us, they wanted to bring the tradition to Tanzania and share it with us!  So we ate, sang, shared stories and roasted sausages over a bonfire with our new Finnish friends.  I am SO glad they decided to share their tradition with us.  After the bonfire, we participated in another Finnish tradition in which you gather 7 different types of flowers to put under your pillow that night.  Then, you will dream of your future husband.  The girls assured me that if you don’t have any dreams, that doesn’t mean you won’t get married.  And if you dream of a stupid man, that doesn’t mean anything either.  I like this tradition.  We settled for 7 different types of leaves since we didn’t have flowers.   For those of you who are wondering (because I know you are out there), I had a completely dreamless night.  However I did have several new mosquito bites and a muscle cramp in my leg.  I don’t know what that says about my matrimonial future…  But before we fell asleep on Friday night, there were screams coming from one of the girls’ rooms.  Either they were being murdered, or someone had lost a limb…it was hard to tell from the screams which had happened.  We arrived at their door to find, not a murderer….but something even worse…a mouse.  Poor Mustafa who works here and was fast asleep next door was put in charge of finding the rodent (which took a lot of work) and chasing it outside.

This event brought back memories of a certain 4-H event that I attended as a member.  State 4-H Roundup…I don’t remember the year.  Two kind, sleep-deprived chaperones (Charlotte and Tracy) told us we could stay up past “lights out” as long as we were completely quiet.  And we were…until a cockroach the size of a charter bus ran across the floor of the dorm room.  Thinking we were being killed, the two sleep-deprived chaperones came running…then we went to bed.  In their defense, I’m pretty sure this was the same year as Charlotte’s famous “Sermon on the Mezzanine.”  Good memories.

Saturday we drove about 45 minutes west to Muheza where we met with a group of young women (ages 18-25).  We enjoyed sharing about projects and activities with them.  Mostly they were impressed with the girls’ projects and wanted them to share their knowledge about candle-making, and their other crafts.  The women sang for us and we sang and danced the Finnish version of the Hokey-Pokey.  Whether you are in a dingy skating rink or in a village in Africa, apparently the Hokey-Pokey is a real classic.  After we returned to Kange and had lunch, the group went to another 4H Club in Tanga and then to the market to buy fabrics and kangas.  Unfortunately, due to a battle wound on my foot that I received during a game of flashlight hide-and-seek the previous night, I stayed at the camp during their trip into town.  Saturday night, after dinner we played a Finnish card game, then Uno, then the evening turned into a big slumber party!  Collin looked onward as I got my hair braided, nails were painted, massages were given, and there was much laughter. 

Today, we went to a Lutheran Church in Tanga.  It was so wonderful to hear the beautiful singing and try to follow along as much as possible.  People there were so friendly and helpful and helped us follow the service as best as we could.  It was great getting to spend some time with new people doing what they do every week.  After lunch, we returned to the beach for a little more fun in the sun and returned to have a candlelit dinner (not for the ambiance, but because the electricity was out).

I am worn out!  But I have had a wonderful week getting to know this group from Finland and we will be sad to see them go when they leave for Moshi on Tuesday.  Tomorrow they are going to visit clubs in Korogwe (where we went two weeks ago), but Collin and I are staying behind to finish a grant proposal and some other paperwork we have to do.  And then, if you can believe it, Collin and I leave on Thursday for Mombasa, Kenya where I will say goodbye as he leaves to travel in Kenya, Uganda, and Ethiopia for two weeks before returning home.  I arrived in Tanga 1 month ago today and the time has flown by!  I can’t wait to see what the next 5 months have in store for me!

Club Visits in Korogwe

First, an apology.  I haven’t died, I didn’t drop off the face of the earth, and I haven’t forgotten about all of you blog readers out there.  Between our travels and our internet/electricity being out, this is the first time I have been able to post my blog and pictures.  It is a long blog, so I hope everyone makes it all the way to the end, but we had a busy week! 

Alright, Wednesday, Collin and I got to try our hand at visiting with 4H Club Leaders and Members.  We were headed to a village called Korogwe, about 90km (55 miles) west of Tanga.  Behind Korogwe lies part of the beautiful Usambara Mountain Range.  But before I delve into that story, I present a comedy/tragedy/lesson for your reading pleasure.

On Tuesday, Gudila took Collin and I into Tanga to shop at the market.  This market is set up on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays and we had no idea it even existed.  It is huge.  You can buy anything there from used clothes to pots to shoes to toys to fabric…which is what we went for.  Yes Katy, I have finally purchased some fabric for you!  After Collin and I picked out our fabrics and I bought a kanga (a traditional Tanzanian skirt that is really just a piece of fabric that you tuck around your waist) we just walked around looking at all that you can buy.  There is a trick to buying kangas that I feel I should warn people about.  At the bottom of each kanga is a Swahili phrase.  Some are motivational, some are religious, some…well, I don’t quite know what to say about them.  The one I bought last time I was in TZ said “Mungu Ndiye Kimbilio Letu” which translates to “God is my refuge.”  You just need to make sure you get a correct translation before you purchase so you don’t end up wearing something you don’t mean to, like: God will bless me with many, many children.  I put that one back, though the pattern was beautiful so I was kind of bummed.   We left Gudila shopping for jeans and decided it was time to try our hand at coming BACK to the 4H Center in a daladala (bus) by ourselves.  We have taken the daladala INTO town by ourselves, but have always taken a taxi back when we are alone.  The daladala ALWAYS stops at the flour mill about ½ a mile from the 4H Center, if not, it will stop again in about 3 more blocks.  Collin and I correctly identified our daladala, hopped on, told them “Kange” and stood squished amongst the other 30 people aboard our 15 passenger van.  The daladala didn’t stop at the flour mill.  The daladala didn’t stop at the 4H Center.  The daladala didn’t stop at the petrol (gas) station just past the 4H Center.  In fact, the daladala didn’t stop for another 10 miles.  I wish I was exaggerating.  It’s only after you pass your stop at 40 miles per hour that you realize how little Swahili you really know.  And from what I could gather from the conversations around us, “We need out” sounds relatively similar to the name of a village far, far ahead on our bus route.  Because when we said it, they all nodded and then kept us from trying to get out.  It was one of those situations where you keep telling yourself “this will make a great story someday, this will make a great story someday,” all the while, you get farther and farther from your destination.  When we were finally able to get off the daladala, we were blessed by another coming from the opposite direction almost immediately, which we were able to board and return to the 4H Center…30 minutes after we passed it the first time.

Ok, ok, now the information you have all been waiting for (just pretend you have been, it will make me feel better): How did the club visits go?  Well.  Great.  Wonderfully!  We had a fantastic time talking to 4H members and leaders.  We began our journey Wednesday morning by loading up one of the 4H Tanzania Range Rovers, giving it a quick push start, because that’s how we roll (pun 100% intended), and climbing in for our 2 hour journey accompanied by Gudila (yes, we take her everywhere with us), Josef the 4H Training Director, and Manase the 4H Fundraising Director.  After we arrived in Korogwe we picked up two District Advisors (they are sort of the equivalent of a county 4-H educator) and had lunch before meeting the first group of women (yes, I said women).  You see, 4H membership in Tanzania ranges in age from 6-25.  Three years ago, 4H Tanzania got a grant from the European Commission to focus on training and supporting young women who work in the “informal sector”.  This is women who have non-professional jobs or who own their own businesses.  These young women entrepreneurs form 4H clubs.  Some of the women are even older than 25.  We talked to them about why they are 4H members, what they have learned from 4H, and what they would like to gain from 4H in the future.  These women work doing anything from poultry keeping to sewing to selling their food to making cloth.  All of them do these things not as a hobby, but as their livelihood.  It is their only source of income.  Some of them are married, some are not, but ALL that we spoke with are mothers.  That is a lot of responsibility for women in their 20’s.  They said some of the most important things they had learned from being in 4H were business skills, finance management, time management, family planning, and self-confidence.

               

After we visited with that group of women, we drove into town to a hair salon that is owned by a women 4H member named Amina.  Amina serves as the treasurer of her 4H Club.  Before she joined 4H she was working for another person’s salon and barely making enough money to survive.  After she joined 4H she decided that she could run her own salon with the knowledge and skills that she had gained.  Her business has now been open for 1 year and is really successful.  She makes an average of 20,000-30,000 Tanzanian Shillings ($15-20) per day.  A huge increase over what she used to make.  She now has a bank account and saves a substantial portion of what she makes. 

Next we went down the road to meet Veronica, a seamstress.  Because of the lack of electricity in Tanzania (even if you have electricity, it will go out often) and the lack of money, sewing machines here are manual.  Like the old fashioned foot pedal ones.  Just imagine making your Fashion Review entries like that.  Veronica has had her business for 5 years and has been a 4H member for 2.  Her fabric and clothes were beautiful and if she was in Tanga, I would have had her make a dress for me.  She also makes batik cloth (which is hand dyed cloth) and trains 3 girls at a time for 1 ½ years in dressmaking.  She said the most important things she has learned so far from 4H is how to communicate with her customers and how to market her business.  The amount of money she saves each month increased by about 30% after she joined 4H. 

After meeting with Veronica and her apprentices, we walked down the street to meet Asnath, a 3 year 4H member who has owned her own restaurant for 1 year.  She was previously working at another restaurant and when she joined 4H she realized that she could run her own business too.  She began selling firewood and charcoal until she had accumulated enough capital to open a small establishment (small meaning it seats about 6 people at a time).  Now that is all that she does.  She is also a mother and said that 4H has helped her learn to plan her time to balance between work and being a mother.

After this we drove for a long time until we reached a maize (corn) field.  We drove through the corn field and reached a Secondary School (7^th grade and up).  There we met 24 year-old Janet.  Janet makes batik (remember it’s the hand dyed cloth), earrings, bracelets, and dresses.  From 4H, Janet has learned decision making skills, how to work with others, creativity in designing and how to look for markets for goods.  The one thing that she would like to have is a facility where she could display and sell her products as well as training other youth in her craft.  It was about this time that we decided to support her business.  Gudila bought a skirt and top and Collin and I bought some batik and bracelets made from coconut shells.  We enjoy supporting these young entrepreneurs!

Next we visited Matilda and her three children…and the rest of the children in the neighborhood as well.  Collin and I are quite an attraction amongst youth.  Some of the most creative young entrepreneurs may soon be selling tickets to see us Mzungus (white people).  We tried our best to carry on a conversation with Matilda about her business (she has a stand where she sells vegetables, clothes, and shoes) while the kids ran towards us, decided they were too close and ran away, laughing the whole time.  From 4H, Matilda gained knowledge about family planning, HIV/AIDS prevention, how to conduct business, and confidence.  After she joined 4H, she learned how to open a bank account and saves about 20,000 Tsh each month.  She would like to receive a loan to provide a better facility for her business.  After our meeting with her, we talked to the kids and took their picture.  After about 20 minutes…one of them got up the courage to actually touch me.  And then laugh hysterically (we both did).

I have bad news for all you readers.  This was just the first day.  We went to our hotel, took showers (in HOT WATER!), and went to dinner.  I had samaki na chipis (fish and French fries) that were delicious.  “fish” in Tanzania (and a lot of other places too) normally means “a fish”, like head, tail, bones, teeth.  That’s your warning. 

Whew!  Ok, intermission.  Go get some coffee to keep yourself awake.  Thursday morning, after breakfast, we drove towards the mountains until we were at their base.  We went to the Korogwe Primary School and were greeted by a group off singing, dancing, welcoming 4H members!  First they sang a welcome song (which you can see on Facebook) then they sang their 4H Pledge.  Yes, they SING their pledge.  I love it!  I’m thinking we should start doing that in the U.S. too!  During their welcome song, they took turns choosing a dance partner.  I couldn’t compete with their moves (shocking, I know).  After we got our groove on (or tried to anyway), we met with the two club advisors and learned general information about their club, meetings, and main projects.  The club has 126 members, more girl members than boys.  Their club-wide projects are tree planting (which is a big deal in Tanzania 4H) and caring for their 2 hectares of maize (corn), which is in a field behind the school.  Most of the 4H members have individual projects as well.  These include poultry keeping, goat keeping, and gardening.  After meeting with the two advisors, we went and met with the kids to ask them questions as well.  About 30 of the 126 members were present to talk with us because the school is actually on break right now.  The kids were great!  And after getting over the initial shyness of talking to us, they had some great answers to our questions.  It is amazing what these kids are focused on and worried about already, even though they are only 10 years-old or so.  We ask what their favorite part of 4H is and most of them gave the same answer: “It helps prepare me for my future” or “It makes me self-reliant so I can take care of myself in the future.”  It is unfortunate that 9-14 year olds are so worried about that, but it is so good that 4H is there to fill that need.  We asked what they would want to know from 4-H members in America.  Some of the things they said were, what kind of 4-H projects you do, how you play computer games, if you sew, and what the cars are like in America.  When asked if there was anything they need from 4H (either Tanzanian or American), they said they need a well.  The school has no access to water without drawing it from the river, half a mile away.  They recently bought a water pump with grant money, but they still have no access to water, which means they cannot properly irrigate their crops.  Sounds like a worthwhile cause, doesn’t it?

We took pictures with them, and once one kid found out they could touch us without something catastrophic happening, Collin and I were surrounded.  It turned into a total frenzy when I unleashed my blond hair from the bondage of a ponytail.  After handing out some 4-H items like Frisbees, pins, and stickers that we had brought, (Thanks to everyone who donated items!  You can go put it in your record book now) we headed on to the next school, about 30 minutes away. 

The next school’s 4H Club has over 300 members!  We met with 6 of the Club Advisors first and asked mostly the same questions we had asked the school before.  After that we met with the kids.  They began by having their Chairperson, Ezekiel, give a presentation about their club, Gudila translated for us. They said that some of their biggest needs are room for planting (they only have ¼ acre for corn and vegetables), technology, irrigation, and a well and pump.  One member said that he enjoyed 4H because it was building the capacity for them to sustain themselves.  What an important and powerful task that is.  They also like 4H because they learn about things like protecting the environment, independence, planning for the future, and leading others.  Their 4H projects also mean that they can afford school materials.  We asked what they want to know about 4-H in America and they had some great questions!  What kind of projects, when did 4-H begin in the U.S., how many members are there, what kind of sports do kids play, the types of food we eat.  They were very excited about the idea of being able to communicate with a club in the U.S. (which is a big project that Collin and I are working on with the Global 4-H Network). 

We had a wonderful time visiting with these clubs and members and getting to see first-hand how 4H works in Tanzania.  While the language and culture may be different, 4-H’s purpose remains the same: to prepare youth to be involved, self-sustaining individuals.  It is good to see the youth here benefitting from the work of 4H, but it is humbling to know that even with 4H, many of these youth won’t attend secondary school, let alone college.  Our idea of success in America is very different from the idea of success in Tanzania (or any other undeveloped country).  One of the young 4H members asked us, “Since you are from a developed country, and Tanzania is an undeveloped country, what can you do to help us be developed and grow?”  I hope I can find the answer to his question in my work here.  That is quite a challenge to work on.   

On Friday, Collin and I left for a trip to Pangani and Saadani National Park where we went on a Safari and boat ride.  And guess what?  I finally saw my hippos!  Lots of them!  But this post is long enough as it is, so I will save my stories for later.  Thanks for reading!

      

I've Got a Lovely Bunch of Coconuts (tweetily-dee)

When you are traveling anywhere, but particularly someplace unlike your home, you learn a lot.  A lot about the place you are going, a lot about culture, and a lot about yourself.  This weekend, Collin, Gudila, and I went south of Tanga 50km (about 35 miles) to a village called Pangani.  The Pangani River runs from Mt. Kilimanjaro down to the Indian Ocean.  We took a Daladala (small bus/ 15 passenger van) to Pangani, leaving from the “Bus Stand” in Tanga—which is quite a busy place full of buses and vans going in all different directions.  There is only one paved road going out of Tanga.  That road is not the road to Pangani.  Thus the 35 mile trip took about two hours.  Travelling in Tanzania has left me pining for the roads of Tulsa (which is saying a lot, I know).  Once we (finally) reached Pangani, we went to the “Tourism Office” and booked a river boat ride in hopes of seeing crocodiles and hippopotamuses (don’t hold your breath).

               

We ate lunch at a nice little restaurant in Pangani and then went to the river to meet our guide and boat captain.  While we were waiting, we had a lovely cultural exchange of our own, much like the Native Americans trading with the Pilgrims, except we taught Gudila about Lady Gaga, and Gudila taught us (or tried her hardest anyway) to carry things on our heads.  We have a ways to go on that.  We’ll keep you posted on our progress.

               

After we boarded the boat, we floated down the river looking at the Mangrove trees that line nearly the entire river.  We discovered that our guide is a bird lover, which is apparently a common thing amongst guides.  Four years ago, when I went on a Safari here while on a mission trip, our guide was a bird lover.  We would all rush to one side of the bus at her ecstatic summons to find a guinea, “Black Neck-ed Dove”, or a “Long-Tailed Fiscal Shrike!” (when you say the word “shrike” you have to end louder and higher pitched than you began or you aren’t saying it correctly).  All the while, elephants and giraffes were wandering past on the other side of the bus.  When she finally spotted a possible lion/rock, she and the bus driver got out to throw rocks at it to see if it would move, leaving us to wonder what we would do if the lion/rock did decide to move.  It didn’t.

               

Ok, back to the story.  We never saw a hippo (which, if you know me, you know if a very sad thing indeed), or a crocodile, but we did see a couple of egrets, a Mangrove Kingfisher, and an eagle that looked suspiciously like a Bald Eagle, but that’s not what he called it.  We floated past boats coming from the Coconut Plantations (Pangani’s #1 commodity), lots of different Mangrove trees, and beautiful Palm trees.  Finally, we came to a village, about an hour and a half up the Pangani River where we pulled up to the shore to go into the village.  Obviously the boat couldn’t pull all the way on dry land, so while I was wondering how I was going to get out without getting my shoes soaking wet, a man on shore (several inches shorter than myself) rolled up his pants.  I thought “WOW!  He must be REALLY strong to pull this big boat onto the shore!”  That is not why he was there.  Suddenly our guide swung from the boat onto this man’s shoulders/back.  The short man with the rolled-up pants was there to carry us…CARRY US…to shore….Yeah, that’s what I said too.  All I could think while I climbed onto his shoulders/back was “It’s a shame this is the last thing this man will see.”  But we made it safely to shore.  Lucky for all of us, Collin was ashore already and could capture the moment for posterity. 

               

Now here is my favorite part of the whole trip.  Going into the village that looked like it has remained untouched for centuries (even though I know it is a regular stop on this tour) we got to see a man climb a Coconut tree and harvest the coconuts.  It was amazing.  After I learn how to carry water on my head, I want to learn how to climb a Coconut tree.  The people in the village were so kind and welcoming.  We loved getting to see the village and how they truly make their living (coconut harvesting).  We took the coconuts and also some roasted corn for our trip back to Pangani.  The coconuts were 3 months old, and thus were soft in the center (kind of like coconut Jello).  If I liked coconuts…it would have been delicious.  But I did manage to drink most of the “coconut water” and eat half of my soft coconut.  The coconuts that we get in the U.S. are 4 months old, which is why they are hard.  So now you know.  4-Hers can put that on their “Things I Learned” page in their record books.

               

After we returned to Pangani we caught a Daladala out of town to where we were staying.  Gudila stayed on the daladala and went back to Tanga.  Collin and I stayed at a place called “Peponi Beach” and arrived just in time to not see the sunset.  But the sunrise this morning made up for it.  Today we went out on a Dhow (traditional sail boat)to go snorkeling, with 4 wonderful people from Holland.  We had a great time and got to see some beautiful fish, some sea stars, and sea urchins (really not a fan of seeing those in the same water that I am in).  One man said that he even saw a barracuda…which is about the time I headed back to the boat.  Despite our best sunscreen efforts, if they sold us at KFC, we would definitely fall under the “extra crispy” category.  Aloe Vera, here we come. 

               

This week we are hoping to visit some 4H Clubs and finish up some of the paper work we have started. This week Collin and I re-designed a 4H Tanzania brochure for promotion.  I also had a phone meeting with the other U.S. delegates to the “Take a Lead” Conference which will be held here in August.  4-H and other youth organizations from all over Africa, North America, and Europe will have delegates here.  It will be a wonderful learning experience and I am so excited to be one of the delegates this year!

 

I will definitely let everyone know when we are visiting clubs and I’m sure that will bring plenty of new stories and pictures! Pictures from this trip: coming soon to a Facebook near you…. 

Lather. Rinse. Repeat.

Dear Mom,

You know how when I was getting ready to leave, you asked if you could do my laundry to help me out and I said no?  Well, I’d like to take you up on that offer now.  Or anyone else, willing to wash all of my clothes….by hand.

That’s right, today was a day of firsts, as I decided it was time (or far past time) to do my laundry.  I put it off as long as I could, but my clothing ensembles were becoming reminiscent of the Great Lost Luggage Catastrophe of 2007 (See Tanzania 2007 pictures if you need an example).  Those of you who lived through that tragedy, shutter to remember…So armed with little more than a bucket, laundry detergent, and two massive piles of laundry, Collin and I started in on our project.  If you have never washed clothes by hand, I encourage you to try it sometime.  Then, after one shirt, you can throw all your clothes into the washer and go get something to eat.  Collin and I do not have this luxury (and it IS a luxury).  If I had the name of the person who invented the washing machine, I would send them a personal thank you note to show my gratitude for their ingenuity…but I do not (I tried Wikipedia…no such luck).  I have had a lot of people ask if they can send care packages, so if you are considering it, please stick in a washing machine for me… and a dryer if you are feeling generous.  Front-load, top-load…I’m not picky.

Another “first” that we experienced today was riding the bus into Tanga…alone.  As Collin put it, it was time for us to spread our wings and go into town for groceries.  In the past we have always had our faithful co-worker and friend, Gudila to guide our way, but alas, she is out sick (FEEL BETTER GUDILA!)  We had never had to board and dismount the bus on our own before, but we handled it quite well.  And we even got our change back for the bus fare (which I wasn’t sure was going to happen).  Really all you have to do is look like you know what you are doing and use enough Swahili to make them think you know what you are doing.  The only problem with this is when you run out of Swahili and have to count on your fingers, out loud, to reach the number that you want (Heaven forbid I need a number higher than 8, because that is all I know).   But we were truly successful.   We got on the bus, paid, got off the bus, crossed the street without getting run over (you laugh, but that is no easy feat, particularly because they drive on the left side of the road and I can just never catch on), bought fruits and vegetables at the open air market without getting ripped off (we think), went to the grocery store, checked out, got a taxi, went to the bank, and made it back to the 4H Centre.  Whew…Are you tired?  Me too.

Besides pretending to be Louis and Clark (or Lois and Clark), Collin and I also did some work here at the office.  We are working on forms for each Club leader (or advisor, as we call them) and District Advisor to fill out to summarize what projects the club and club members are doing.  You see, 4H’ers here are big into record keeping.  That’s right, U.S. 4H’ers, I said record keeping.  That monster which we all love to loathe.  They enjoy and value it.  They focus on record keeping, partially because they use their projects to make money (selling eggs, for example) and use that money to pay for school fees, buy uniforms, support their school lunches, or support their families.  What we call “Life Skills” they call pre-professional training.  This is so important because many youth will never receive an education passed 6^th Grade.  In Tanzania, not only does Secondary School (7^th Grade and up) cost money, but you have to pass an exam just to get into Secondary School (like talking the ACT or SAT), so for those youth who do not make it into Secondary School, or cannot afford it, their working life begins there.  That is why they take their 4H Projects so seriously. 

Kind of makes you want to go work on you record book, doesn’t it?  No?  Well, sorry parents, I tried. 

We are working on some plans to go and visit some 4H Clubs around Tanzania, but we don’t have any solidified plans yet.  Getting to visit clubs would absolutely be my favorite part of work and hopefully we can do some sightseeing as well!

I hope everyone is having a wonderful beginning to summer!   Eat a Popsicle for me! 

This is My Island in the Sun

To sum up our trip to Zanzibar, two words come to mind: “Amazing” and “Exhausting”. We had a fantastic time relaxing, exploring, eating, meeting new people, and speaking to people in English. You really never appreciate being able to easily communicate with those around you until you are unable to. You also never realize how many different words there are in the English language until you have to explain them all, and select your words carefully. I am completely in awe of people who are fluent in other languages... and a smidge envious too.

One thing I did not expect to learn about here in Tanzania is racial prejudice. I know that sounds silly, but it really didn't cross my mind. Sure people stare at you when you walk down the street...you get used to it. So maybe some babies cry when their mother absent-mindedly holds them near you (it's a self-esteem booster, let me tell you). It makes you want to yell "So, I don't own a mirror and I haven't taken a shower...what of it?!" (I didn't think to bring a mirror with me, and I have yet to find one to buy. And on a side note: Zanzibar, the land of the most beautiful things in the world, is not a good place to see yourself for the first time in a week.) Now, I must admit, sometimes when Collin and I see a "White" person now...we stare at them too. It is funny, but I always used to assume that if I saw someone here who was "White", then they were American. We have yet to meet an American. In Zanzibar we met 3 girls from South Africa, a man from Belgium, a couple from Bahrain, and two girls originally from Brazil, now living in Doha, Qatar. All of whom I would have looked at and assumed that they were American. Sometimes it is amazing what we absent-mindedly assume about people based on what we see of them. (I think there was an important ethical message tucked somewhere in all of that)

Now for your next Swahili word: Mzungu (White person) We hear this word a lot.

Ok, now I know you all want to know more about our trip to Zanzibar, and I have a lot to say. You know that saying "A picture's worth a thousand words," well I took about 200 pictures...so go put on your comfy pants and brew yourself a cup of coffee! Just kidding, really, I will let the pictures do the talking (on Facebook), but I will explain a little about the trip before I upload the pictures (you didn't really think you were getting off that easily, did you?).

Collin and I were staying towards the North end of Zanzibar, on the coastal side (East). At high tide (about 5:00 am), there is basically no beach at all, and at low tide (noon), you can walk about 200 yards (total guess) out into the ocean without having to swim. There were all sorts of creatures that we saw (mostly little crabs, a few sea urchins, sea stars). At low tide you could walk for miles along the beach (which we did) up to the village near by and find restaurants, hotels, and souvenirs ("a special price...just for you...because you are my sister." I'm betting that man didn't have a sister...and if he did, she should be very insulted). Last night we took a "Sunset Cruise" on a Dhow (a traditional Zanzibari boat). Unfortunately, it was a little cloudy, so it was more of a "oh, yeah, I think I can see the sun" cruise (unless you are also keeping up with Collin's blog, in which case I believe the sunset was "crimson and violet"), but still tons of fun, as we got to snorkel for about 30 minutes too. I have mixed feelings about snorkeling. I like looking at the fish...until something touches me. Then the happy feeling is gone and I want out. I also had trouble reminding myself that if I was breathing through a snorkel, I didn't have to come up for breath every few seconds (I'm a slow learner...what of it). After our cruise we went back to our hotel for dinner. They were having a special buffet dinner and it was scrum-delicious. I even tried calamari (tried...I tried...but rubber bands are much more in my price range).

This morning we left our hotel right after breakfast in order to spend a few hours in Stonetown (the historical city of Zanzibar). We tried to buy some souvenirs, but that whole Mzungu thing got in the way. You know you are in a touristy area when they give you the price of something and your first instinct is to laugh. ("But I have to eat!"..."yeah...me too, buddy") Now Collin and I have started communicating in Spanish about money matters, it's working quite well.

Tomorrow, we return to our regular lives of working on 4H things...now aren't you glad I'm letting the pictures speak for themselves?

The Island of Zanzibar!

…I am convinced is the most beautiful place in the world!  Yesterday Collin and I went to the Tanga Airport (just a few miles for the 4-H Center) to fly to Zanzibar (a quick 30 minute flight).  Normally you would see the plane at the gate 1 hour before take-off time, but when you are flying on such as large plane that accommodates all of 12 passengers, the plane arrives about 1 hour AFTER the scheduled take-off time.   Allow me to introduce you to this concept of “African time” which basically runs on the philosophy of: eh, we get there when we get there.  Hakuna matata (what a wonderful phrase)…it means “no worries” (for the rest of your days).  4 pm mean 6-ish, this morning means this afternoon, and “later” means next Thursday (maybe).  For westerners, it takes a little getting used to.  I keep looking at my watch like it makes a difference, but really there is nothing you can do, and once you accept that, it’s smooth sailing.

(And speaking of sailing)  Pop quiz:  What is more difficult than mounting a sea kayak on the beach?  Answer: mounting a sea kayak in the middle of the ocean.  Most people attempt this feat, it is only those who capsize that get to experience this true joy.  (I don’t recommend it).  It was completely unavoidable though (except for the other three people with me…they seemed to avoid it).  It was a massive wave (the type only conjured up in novels… and kiddie pools).  Collin and I started our morning at 6 by joining two girls from South Africa to kayak down the coast to watch the sun rise and the fishermen unload their boats, bring in their catch and head out again.  An awesome sight!  I wish I could have taken pictures of it all, but the Zanzibar natives really don’t like having their picture taken.  And considering I capsized a total of 3 times during the trip…it was probably a good idea to not take my camera with me.  Kayaking is one of the most exhausting things I have ever done, but definitely worth it! 

This afternoon we walked up the coast towards more of the hotels, collecting shells, looking at the sea creatures (urchins, crabs, and the occasional brittle sea star) until we reached the village where we visited a sea turtle conservation aquarium.  We got to feed and even hold sea turtles! They are so adorable…I want one (I promise to feed it every day, Mommy!).  Then we ate lunch and took a taxi back to our hotel, as it had started pouring.

Unfortunately, we leave early tomorrow morning for Stonetown (the historic part of Zanzibar) for a few hours before we fly back to Tanga.  If I had two weeks (and a million dollars), I would spend it all here.  I have taken a couple of hundred pictures already and will post them as soon as I have time to look through them all. 

4H, Bus Rides, and Zanzibar

Swahili phrase of the day: Habari yako? (How are you)

By popular demand:  My blog.  I decided that in the long run, this will be better than sending out update emails.  Same information, just in a different format.  Also, part of my job here and with the Global 4-H Network is to link the U.S. and Tanzania 4-H Programs.  A great way to start that process is through a blog, which I am able to share easily with other (innocent and unsuspecting) 4-Hers all over the country…or just my grandparents.  (WARNING:  Larger captive audience = more painful writing).  My hope is that this blog will serve to inform and hopefully entertain as well.

The name of my blog “Udongo uwahi ungali maji” is Swahili for “Work while the clay is still wet.”  (Unless you type it into Google Translate, then it says “Soil water is still promptness”…doesn’t have quite the same ring to it.)  When looking up some Swahili phrases, I found a lot to choose from, such as “If you knew what the bees had eaten, you wouldn’t have tasted the honey.”  While this is equally applicable to life, it just doesn’t strike message that I want to send. 

To work while the clay is still wet is to shape youth while they are not yet set in their ways.  That is how 4-H began, by educating youth about new agricultural practices because their parents would not accept them.  And in Africa, it has very much the same purpose.  More than 42% of Tanzania’s workforce is employed in agriculture (compared with 2% in the U.S.) and in many undeveloped countries the percentage is even higher.  In addition to agricultural practices, 4H members in Tanzania also learn sewing, cooking, woodcarving, entrepreneurship, record keeping, and a host of other “life skills”. 

Ok, I’ll get off my soapbox now and get on to the important information, like what I had for breakfast (a roll with peanut butter and jelly and a banana).  Or that today I had the unique experience of sitting in my room, hearing a crash, and going into my bathroom to find that my toilet tank had fallen off the wall and onto the floor.  That’s right…off the wall and onto the floor.  You see, in Tanzania, if you are fortunate enough to get a toilet, as opposed to a “squatty-potty” (a.k.a.- hole), it will most likely be made of plastic.  Such is the case with mine and the tank hangs on the wall, with a (plastic) pipe that connects to the bowl.  Lucky for me, my floor is a drain, so, no problem there.

In other news: Bus rides into the city of Tanga, about 5 miles away (the longest 5 miles of your life), have quickly become my most and least favorite part of Tanzanian life.  Riding the bus is sort of like buying a tent, except the opposite.  When you are looking at a tent and it says “fits 4” what it really means is fits 1 ½ regular people, or 3 imps and a newt.  With busses you may think it fits 10, but really, you just aren’t using your imagination.  And just when you think “well at least we can’t stop and pick up any more people” 18 more board the “bus”.  These busses are really just 15 passenger vans (or smaller) and fit approximately 37.  It is a great way to get to know people…if only you could move your head from side to side.   

Tomorrow, Collin and I leave for a little trip to Zanzibar (no bus rides, just airplane) and we will return on Sunday with, I’m sure, many more stories and pictures.